Paul Robinson Climber Profile
Contents
- Bio
- Stats
- Notable Climbs
- Flashes Candyland (V12) – 2019
- Bouldering V14 – Jumpman in 2018
- First Ascent Spree in South Africa – 2014
- Jaws II (9a+/5.15a) – 2013
- Paul Opens The New Chapter (V15) – 2013
- Paint it Black (V15) – 2012
- 2nd Ascent of Angama (V15) – 2011
- The Story of Two Worlds (V15) – 2011
- Gritstone Classics in England – 2011
- Paul Climbs V14 in only 20 Minutes – Derailed in 2010
- Lucid Dreaming (V15) – 2010
- Wood Grain Grippin’ in Arkansas (V14) – 2009
- Terremer (V15) & Nagual (V13) – 2008
- Jade (V14) – 2007
- Sources
Bio
Paul Robinson is an American rock climber who is known for his bouldering accomplishments over the years. Not only has he climbed more than 1,000 boulders with a grade 8A/V11 or harder, but he has a passion for developing new climbing areas and is constantly in search of the next new quality project.
Paul started climbing at age 10 at a birthday party at an indoor climbing gym in New Jersey and since then climbing has been a primary focus in his life. He grew up in Moorestown, New Jersey, and later moved to Colorado to attend the University of Colorado Boulder. After college, he focused on exploring and developing new climbing areas.
In May of 2020, Paul surpassed 1,000 boulders 8A (V11) or harder, finishing with Get Laid (V13) in Colorado’s Coal Creek Canyon, an accomplishment that few climbers ever reach. He had done 410 8A’s (V11), 287 8A+ (V12), 192 8B (V13), 90 8B+ (V14), and 21 8C (V15) over the course of 16.5 years. Some of his hardest first ascents included Lucid Dreaming (V15), Ill Trill (V14/15), The New Chapter (V15), and The Pirate’s Code (V15) and many more. He also had some difficult flashes such as Candyland (V12) and Nagual (V13). You can read more about his feat in this interview with Planet Mountain and a quite long, more in-depth look at his journey on Climbing.com.
Table Of Contents
Stats
Hometown: Moorestown, NJ Hardest Grade: V15
While he spends most of his time bouldering, he has competed before. He competed in the American Bouldering Series (ABS) National Championships, and Climbing magazine notes a seventh-place finish at the Vail Bouldering World Cup.
Paul has also documented many of his development trips and first ascents on film and social media.
Paul is still very active in the climbing community and is constantly exploring new places to climb. He posts frequently on social media, so you can keep up with him by following him on Instagram, YouTube, and Facebook.
Notable Climbs
Flashes Candyland (V12) – 2019
In 2019, Paul flashed Candyland (V12) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, which Climbing lists among his hardest flashes.
Bouldering V14 – Jumpman in 2018
Jumpman (V14) is a Colorado problem that finishes with a big dyno. Paul had a hard journey on it, working it through freezing winter conditions before finally sending. A short film of his ascent includes his own voice-over about what went through his head while climbing.
First Ascent Spree in South Africa – 2014
In 2014, Paul spent a long stretch bouldering in South Africa. In the Three Corners area, he established a batch of new problems, including In the Depths of Solitude (V14/15) in July 2014, one of his hardest first ascents.
Jaws II (9a+/5.15a) – 2013
In Rumney, New Hampshire, Paul made the fifth ascent of Jaws II (5.15a). It was one of the few 5.15s in America. Dave Graham first climbed the original line, Jaws, at 5.14b in 1998, and after holds broke, Vasya Vorotnikov climbed the harder Jaws II in 2007. Paul had first tried Jaws in 2011 and became obsessed with the route, spending time on it over the course of a couple years but struggling with the mental battle of the two cruxes. After his climb in October of 2013, it was his hardest sport climb to date. You can watch the video of his experience here.
Paul Opens The New Chapter (V15) – 2013
In March 2013, Paul opened a new V15 boulder problem in Arkansas’ Ozark Mountains called The New Chapter. It is a low start to an existing problem and climbs a big roof, and Climbing lists it among his hardest first ascents.
Paint it Black (V15) – 2012
Paint it Black is a 65 degree roof problem located in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park and is a V15 that was established by Daniel Woods in February of 2012. Less than two months later, Paul claimed the second ascent of the route, as well as the second ascent of another Woods route, Mirror Reality (V14). Paul said on public ticklist on 27Crags: “amazing boulder! props to DW for putting up one of the best lines in colorado. pure roof boulder with incredible movements. crux foot move for me!“
Paul on Paint it Black (V15)
2nd Ascent of Angama (V15) – 2011
Paul claimed the second ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Angama (V15) in March of 2011. The route is in Fontainebleau, France, and Paul was finishing up a nine month trip through Europe. On his 8a.nu scorecard, he said “2nd ascent. climbs SUPER well, flowy. so hard to do that last hard move at the end! around 18 moves total.” He had already climbed the most difficult lines on this boulder, including Satan i Helvete (V13) and Satan i Helvete Assis (V14).
The Story of Two Worlds (V15) – 2011
The Story of Two Worlds (V15) is located in Switzerland and Paul took the second ascent of the problem in March of 2011. It was opened by Dave Graham in January of 2005, but hadn’t been properly repeated until then. Dai Koyamada tried to get the second ascent, but didn’t start at the right place due to incorrect beta, skipping the first three moves. Paul said it was a “dream come true! What a huge relief!“
Paul on The Story of Two Worlds (V15). Credit Marc Stellbogen.
Gritstone Classics in England – 2011
While he was experiencing poor weather in France, Paul took a quick day trip to England to explore London and climb some famous boulder problems in the Peak District. It only took him a day, but he came away with an impressive tick list of the classic gritstone routes Deliverance (V8), Brad Pitt (V10), and The Ace (V13). Paul said “Every climb I did and the few brief hours I had on the grit were incredible…”
Paul Climbs V14 in only 20 Minutes – Derailed in 2010
While in the very beginnings of a global bouldering trip, Paul wasted no time in climbing Rocklands’ Derailed (V14) in only twenty minutes. He had briefly tried the problem last trip, and said it had “very cool movement.” He also commented that he felt “strong and psyched for the remainder of trip!!!“
Lucid Dreaming (V15) – 2010
In March 2010, Paul Robinson claimed the first ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15), an explosive sit start to Rastaman Vibration (V12) near Bishop, California. At the time he was a student at the University of Colorado. The climb thrust him into the climbing world spotlight.
Wood Grain Grippin’ in Arkansas (V14) – 2009
Near Fayetteville, Arkansas, in the area of Horseshoe Canyon Ranch lies Wood Grain Grippin’, an V14/8B+ boulder problem that was first climbed by David Graham in 2008. It was repeated by Daniel Woods, and Paul Robinson took the third ascent in late 2009. It took him one day and about ten tries, and he had also climbed other boulders in the area such as Typhoon (V10/7C+), Bloody Knuckles (V11/8A), Loved By Few, Hated By Many (V13/8B), and The Anti-Hero (V13/8B).
Terremer (V15) & Nagual (V13) – 2008
Back in 2008, Paul took the second ascent of Terremer (V15) in Hueco Tanks. Swiss climber Fred Nicole established it in early 2006, and at the time it was considered the hardest problem at Hueco.
A few months earlier, Paul had flashed Nagual (V13), a Fred Nicole problem at Hueco. As climbing.de reported, only Britain’s James Pearson had flashed a V13 before him, making Paul the first American to do it.
Jade (V14) – 2007
Robinson made an early repeat of Daniel Woods’s Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park, now one of the most popular V14 boulder problems in the country. The climb could be considered one of the main turning points in his early career.