Alexander Megos

Alexander Megos, or Alex Megos, is a professional climber from Germany who has made climbing news several times for his accomplishments. He started climbing at age six and began training in 2006 under the supervision of coaches Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb.

In 2007, he completed his first 8a (5.13b) and two years later climbed his first 8c. In 2011, he had his first 9a ascent (details below). He has also competed at the top level, winning lead bronze (2018) and silver (2019) at the World Championships, as well as multiple other titles in both adult and youth competitions.

After 2012, Megos decided to limit competition appearances so he could focus on outdoor climbing, which was more fitting with his passions and desires. However, he returned to competition and qualified for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, where he finished 9th and just missed the final. In 2021 and 2022, he continued to compete in IFSC events.

Stats

Ape Index: 1 / 0″ Height: 5’7″ DOB: 8/12/1993 Started Climbing: 1999 Hardest Sport (worked): 9b+ Hardest Sport (onsight): 9a

If you want to keep up with Alex, you can follow him on Instagram, Facebook, his website, and YouTube, as well as podcasts like The Struggle and Jam Crack.

Notable Climbs

In the early years, climbing star Alex Megos had his first 5.13b in 2007, his first 5.14b in 2009 (Drive-By Shooting), and his first 5.14d in 2011 with San Ku Kai in France. He claimed Australia’s first 5.14d, The Red Project, in August of 2013, and in 2015 his Supernova (9a+/9b) was likely the first route of that grade in a German-speaking country. Every climbing magazine seemed to be reporting on his achievements and the community was excited to see where he could take his talent.

In later years, he kept adding hard first ascents around the 9a+ level. Here below are some other notable climbs, listed in order from most recent to past. His climbing style pushes him to send some of the toughest problems and most challenging routes in the world and he has many notable climbs to show for it.

Bibliographie (9b+) – 2020

Right next to Biographie in Ceuse (which Alex climbed in 2014), is Bibliographie, a 9b+ route that Alex originally proposed as 9c. It took him around 60 days of effort over three years to claim the first ascent of the route, which was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009. After Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent, the grade settled at 9b+, and it’s still considered one of the hardest routes in the world.

First 9b+ (5.15c) – Perfecto Mundo in 2018

Perfecto Mundo (5.15c) is one of the most popular 9b+ routes in the world (route bolted by Chris Sharma). Alex claimed the first ascent in May 2018, making it his first 9b+, and he became only the third person in the world to tick the grade, after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Megos later said it took him about 16 days, and he said on Facebook that it was “an important process in [his] climbing career.“

First Round, First Minute (5.15b) – 2015

On New Year’s Eve in 2015, Alex finally clipped the chains of First Round, First Minute, the Chris Sharma route from 2011. It had only been repeated by Adam Ondra, and Megos got the third ascent while on a trip to the Laboratorio sector of Margalef, Spain. His effort was significant because it marked Alex’s hardest ascent to date and his first 5.15b.

First Ascent of Pebble Project (5.14c) in West Virginia – 2015

Only a few days after Superpod (5.14d), Alex reportedly put up another hard new route in West Virginia, Pebble Project (5.14c), in just two tries.

First Ascent of New River Gorge’s First 5.14d – Superpod in 2015

While on a trip to West Virginia’s New River Gorge, Alex extended an existing route called Pod (5.13b) to create Superpod (5.14d). This created the New River Gorge’s first 5.14d, and it took Alex only four tries before he successfully completed the 20+ year old project, which was equipped back in 1992 by Porter Jarrard.

3rd Ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15) – 2015

In 2015, Alex took the 3rd ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15), a “next level” boulder problem in Bishop, California. The first ascent was by Paul Robinson in 2010, who originally graded it V16; the problem has since settled at V15. On Facebook, Alex wrote: “Feels like a DREAM but it’s not. Finally took down my hardest boulder ever and as well my longest project ever!”

Biographie (5.15a) in a Day – 2014

When Megos repeated Biographie (5.15a) in Ceuse, he set the fastest time to date, completing the route in only three tries, all in a single day. It was first climbed by Chris Sharma but it took him years, and the following ascents required a significant amount of time even though they were from the world’s most elite climbers. Needless to say, Alex’s 3rd-go-ascent shocked the climbing community.

Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands – 2014

In 2014, Alex Megos was still relatively unknown but was spending some time in well known Ceuse and Rocklands. He unlocked some outrageous beta and threw some huge dynos on the famous Sky (V14), and he also got agonizingly close to established a new 5.15a before breaking a crucial hold. It was during this trip that he claimed the first ascent of Et dieu crea la Flemme (5.14d) and ticked Biographie (5.15a) in a single day (see above).

Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours – 2014

The first climber of Action Directe was German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, and it was the world’s first 9a (5.14d). It’s considered an important and historic route, and in May 2014 Alex completed it within two hours of starting work on it, at the age of 20. Because of the route’s age and limited number of repeats, it goes to show just how difficult it is and how impressive it was that Megos completed it in such a short amount of time.

Alex’s US Trip to Heuco Tanks, On Fire in the US – 2013

In the summer and fall of 2013, Alex spent about four months on US soil and created quite the impressive ticklist, with well over a hundred routes and boulders graded 8a or harder. He wrapped up his four month tour in Hueco Tanks, Texas, where in a single day he sent Flower Power (V10/11), Crown of Aragorn (V13), Power of Landjager (v11), The Full Monty (V12), and Crown Royale (V13).

In addition, he also visited Rumney, New Hampshire where he sent Fly (5.14d) and China Beach (5.14b) second try; Red River Gorge in Kentucky where he flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c)and sent countless others like The Tube (5.14b), Golden Ticket (5.14c), and Southern Smoke (5.14c); Colorado where he flashed Gutless Wonder (5.14b) and spent some time crack climbing; Red Rock, Nevada, where he sent Wet Dream (V12); and Bishop California, where he sent Evilution Direct (V11), The Mandala (V11), and flashed Blood Meridian (V13).

This was an extremely impressive stint of time in America and it really solidified Alex’s place amongst the top climbers of this generation.

Wheel of Life (V15) – 2013

The Wheel of Life (V15), first climbed by Dai Koyamada, is the ultimate roof problem and has seen relatively few ascents. Megos completed it in only two days while in the Grampians’ Hollow Mountain Cave.

Corona (5.15a) – 2013

Back on his home turf in Germany, Alex claimed the 3rd ascent of Corona (5.15a) at Frankenjura. It was established by Markus Bock and was considered one of the hardest routes in the area.

World’s First 9a Onsight – Estado Critico in 2013

At only 19 years old, Megos shocked the climbing community on March 24, 2013, with the world’s first onsight of a 9a (5.14d) with Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. Adam Ondra, who had been expected to get there first, made the second 9a onsight a few months later.

Titles

alexander megos accomplishments

First Ascents: Bibliographie, Perfecto Mundo, Fight Club, Supernova, and many more.

2017- silver medal / runner-up in bouldering at the European Championships

2018- bronze medal at the Chamonix Lead World Cup, gold medal at the Briançon Lead World Cup, bronze medal in lead at the World Championships

2019- silver medal lead World Championships

2021- Tokyo 2020 Olympics (9th)

Resources:

DMM
Alexander-Megos.de
Planet Mountain
Climbing.com
Climbing-History.org
Mountain Project

Cover photo from Alexander-Megos.de