7c+ to V Scale: How It Converts to a V10 or 5.13a
Contents
- Key Takeaways
- Converting 7c+ to the V Scale
- What is the Fontainebleau Scale?
- What is the V Scale?
- Why Grades Feel Different Regionally
- The Subjectivity of Climbing Grades
- A Brief History of Grading Systems
- Practical Tips for Grade Conversion
- Beyond 7c+: Pushing Your Limits
- Climbing Grade Conversions
- Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the Fontainebleau scale?
- What is the V scale?
- What is the V scale equivalent of 7C+?
- Why do climbing grades feel different in different regions?
- Are climbing grades always accurate?
- How can I convert Font grades to V grades in the U.S.?
- Can I climb harder grades by only focusing on the numbers?
- Sources
If you’re trying to understand how a 7C+ boulder grade converts to the V scale, or how a 7c+ sport route converts to the YDS, you’re in the right place.
7C+ is a bouldering grade from the Fontainebleau system, used mostly in Europe.
The short answer: a Font 7C+ boulder is about V10, and a French sport 7c+ route is about 5.13a. Climbing magazine lists Font 7C+ problems as V10, and the UIAA’s grade comparison table puts a sport 7c+ at 5.13a. Lowercase 7c+ (sport) and uppercase 7C+ (Font boulder) are different scales, and no standard chart converts the sport grade to a V grade, so treat any such comparison as a rough rule of thumb.
Let’s make the conversion simple.
Key Takeaways
- The Fontainebleau Scale, developed in France, is the most widely used system for grading the difficulty of bouldering problems. Likewise, the V Scale, created in the United States, is just as indicative of the bouldering climb challenge.
- 7C+ on the Fontainebleau Scale generally equates to a V10 on the V Scale. This equivalence helps climbers understand this equivalence so they can compare difficulty between European and American climbing routes.
- Grade conversions are helpful but not absolute, as regional climbing styles and local grading traditions can make routes feel easier or harder than their assigned grade.
- First, climbing grades are highly subjective. They are subjective and erratic, based on climber experience, technique, environmental conditions. So, personal progression is much more useful than an absolute grade against a set scale.
- Using guidebooks, online conversion charts, and advice from local climbers can make switching between grading systems smoother and more accurate.
- Establish aspirational targets that greatly exceed the 7c+ grade. Train regularly, try diverse forms of climbing, and continue to progress while having fun!
Converting 7c+ to the V Scale
When talking about bouldering grades, both the French (or Font) system and the V Scale help climbers know what to expect on the wall. The Font Scale is the preferred scale in Europe and much of the world outside the US. In America, the V Scale is the dominant system.
Both aim to convey the same thing, how hard a problem is, but one mixes numbers and letters and the other uses numbers. The Font Scale runs from 1 up to 9A. On the other hand, the V Scale starts at VB, beginner, and extends up to V17.
Converting between them is not always straightforward, but there are some overarching guidelines. For instance, V9 corresponds with 7C, and V10 corresponds to 7C+ on the Font Scale. So if you see 7C+ on a bouldering topo or guide, get ready for a fight. This grade is generally equivalent to about V10 in US climbing gyms.
Here’s a simple method to convert them over. Follow these deliberations with the simple first step – determining where your problem falls on the Font Scale. For converting 7C+ to the V Scale, consult a conversion table.
You’ll note that Font 7C+ is V10. This doesn’t always align perfectly. Climbers will find that one V10 in a particular gym is harder or easier than going outside and climbing a 7C+ in France. This discrepancy stems from how routes are established and climbing style in both regions.
Many find a conversion chart like the one below helpful:
| V Scale | Font Scale |
|---|---|
| V9 | 7C |
| V10 | 7C+ |
Switching between different systems is an important tool for climbers to navigate and compare their journeys. It’s convenient to have, but never forget that grades are a suggestion and not a statute.
What is the Fontainebleau Scale?
The Fontainebleau Scale, popularly referred to as the French scale, is a grading system for bouldering problems. It started in the Fontainebleau forest, a well-known bouldering spot in France with sandstone rocks and many short, hard climbs. This varied and textured forest created an appropriate home for a scale that reflects the nuance and breadth of bouldering moves.
In short, this scale quantifies the difficulty of boulder problems. It is something that people use, not only in France but all over Europe. It’s an essential guide for residents and tourists alike to understand what they’re up against.
The scale ranges from 1 to 9, but most routes are grade 3 or above. Anything below a 3 is infrequent and often considered simple for the average climber. You can even subdivide each of those numbers again with the letters “a,” “b,” or “c.
From time to time, you’ll spot a “+” signifying a notch increase in difficulty in the same number. A problem rated 7C+ is slightly more difficult than one rated 7C. It’s not super iconic 8A hard either. This arrangement allows climbers to focus in on the specific area where a problem lies.
It captures small differences in difficulty. The Fontainebleau Scale is the primary grading system used in Europe, and it can be heard throughout some of the most famous bouldering locations.
It’s about the steep, cruxy nature of bouldering, where only the strongest, most skilled and problem-solving masters may conquer each move. Predictably, the grades can be a bit arbitrary. What seems difficult for one climber may be easier or harder for the next due to differences in style or stature.
The Fontainebleau Scale can be difficult to reconcile with the widely used V-scale system popular in the U.S. The purpose of both systems is to help prospective climbers understand what they’re getting themselves into.
What is the V Scale?
The V Scale is a very American grading system entirely focused on bouldering. The V Scale serves as a tool for climbers to gauge how hard a boulder problem is. This scale is primarily used in the United States and is also called the Hueco scale. It starts at V0, ideal for the lowest of low hanging fruit climbs.
Now, it reaches V17, and the first V18 was proposed in 2025. Each increase, such as V1 or V2, represents a significant increase in difficulty of the climb. This system lets climbers describe problems using easily understood and specific numerical values. This method reduces the vagueness of words such as “easy” or “hard,” which can differ widely based on personal interpretation.
American climber John “Vermin” Sherman codified the V Scale at Hueco Tanks, Texas, for his 1991 guidebook, after his publisher insisted the problems be graded. The scale then spread across the U.S.
Climbers report that the V Scale is easy to use. For example, a new climber might start out working V0 or V1 problems. Conversely, advanced climbers actively look for problems at V5 or above. This system is not the only one out there.
In regions such as France or the U.K., rock climbers rely on other grading scales. To provide a clear picture for everyone, guidebooks and websites often list both grades. The V Scale is a bit of an evolving concept as new climbs are established and climbed. There are discussions about moving some grades up, illustrating how much the sport is developing.
Why Grades Feel Different Regionally
We have found climbing grades are not consistent across the country, or even within the same state. How difficult a route seems can vary dramatically from location to location. This all boils down to distinct local climbing styles.
For example, a V4 on steep, juggy rock can feel very different from a V4 on the small crimps at Joshua Tree. Some locations, like Yosemite, have a reputation for “sandbagged” grades. Even residents will admit that it just doesn’t seem right when you compare the numbers to other places.
Every climbing area tends to build its own way of seeing grades, shaped by its rock type, history, and the folks who climb there. Even two nearby areas can feel quite different at the same grade.
The same goes for aid climbing: a pitch first rated A5 may later be considered easier as fixed gear and beta build up. Ice climbing even has a regional scale, NEI, used in New England alongside the WI scale.
Culture matters, as well, to be sure. In many locales, it is the community that pushes for inflated grades, while others hold the line on the lowball figures. Local heroes, first ascensionists, and guidebook writers all contribute to creating the vibe.
Gear is important, too. A dangerous route with poor protection might feel harder than its grade suggests. This occurs not only due to the physical moves involved, but because of the mental difficulty it presents.
With the passage of years, improved equipment and new techniques can make previously hard test pieces feel easier, and grades change once more.
The Subjectivity of Climbing Grades
Climbing grades, be it on the French scale as in 7c+ or on the American V scale, are fluid. Each climber’s perception of difficulty is affected by their unique combination of physicality, technique and style, even their headspace on that particular day.
Say a climber excels at finger strength, they’ll find a crimpy boulder problem a cinch. On the other hand, a second climber with superior form might sail effortlessly up overhanging climbs that others can barely hold on to. Grades can sometimes seem “wrong” because fear, fatigue, or stress can greatly alter the perception of difficulty.
Even just the psychological effect of an exposed route can be intimidating for safety-conscious climbers. This is even the case if the moves aren’t very difficult. It’s not just the amount of gear; the type of gear makes a difference as well. Aid routes can also get easier as more climbers do them and fixed gear builds up.
This is why two climbers might grade the same line with an entirely different letter grade. This is why a route’s grade can go down in the years to come.
Weather and the rock itself can have an even larger impact. Wet holds, heat, or even a stiff breeze can make even a fierce moderate climb feel like a battle. The kind of stone, slick Southern California granite or rough sandstone, changes the experience, as does whether you’re sport or trad climbing.
Grading systems like the YDS and the French system are designed to be consistent, but they don’t always line up, especially at harder grades. After all is said and done, a climbing grade merely serves as an indication.
Most people come to appreciate it more when they focus on tracking their improvement and growth as climbers, instead of chasing arbitrary numbers.
A Brief History of Grading Systems
The history of climbing grades has a deep, powerful narrative current running across Europe and the United States. Early European climbers graded alpine rock with Roman numerals. The best known of these systems, the Welzenbach scale, ran from I to VI with plus and minus signs.
In 1967, the Welzenbach scale officially became the UIAA scale. The UIAA later opened it upward as climbers kept pushing past grade VI.
As climbing became more popular, the methods of grading routes multiplied. In France, François Labande presented the French numeric scale in the late 1980s. This new scale replaced the Roman numeral system with Arabic numerals, simplifying the process of reading and recording grades.
The French system soon became the de facto standard for modern sport climbing. Its impact is such that it forever changed the language climbers all over the world use to talk about grades. At the same time, gear continued to improve, as did the skills of climbers, so grades continued to increase.
The American scene went in a very different direction. The National Climbing Classification System (NCCS) and the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) introduced a distinctly U.S. Flavor to climb rating. When it comes to bouldering, the V-scale, popularized by John “Verm” Sherman’s 1991 Hueco Tanks guidebook, raised the bar.
Names such as Wolfgang Güllich provide important landmarks as well. His 1991 ascent of Action Directe in Germany is widely considered the first 9a (5.14d), though Ben Moon’s Hubble from 1990 is also a contender.
Practical Tips for Grade Conversion
Transitioning from the V Scale to Font Scale takes a bit of technical know-how. Each system comes from a different climbing culture and is based on a different philosophy of grading. The V Scale, used almost exclusively in the US, is even more straightforward, using just numbers and a rare plus sign.
The Font Scale, found in Europe and beyond, offers more grade steps and uses letters and plus signs to show small shifts in difficulty. Due to this, converting grades such as 7C+ into the V Scale is not a clean cut process. Here are some hands-on tips to help with grade conversion:
- Look up some reliable conversion charts, but keep in mind these are only rough guides. For example, V7 is roughly equivalent to Font 7A+, and V10 corresponds with Font 7C+.
- Guidebooks and online lists such as these can be useful for finding inspiration. Watch for new editions, because grades can undergo a re-calibration as more climbers climb routes multiple times.
- Compare problems directly. If a gym or area lists both grades, try a Font 7C+ and a V10 in the same session. The difference can tell you more than the numbers do.
- Those plus signs and minus signs are important. So a Font 7A+ isn’t necessarily going to feel like a V7, and a Font 7C will feel a little easier than a 7C+.
- Connect with residents and find online communities. All climbers have their unique perspectives on difficult grades, and there is nothing quite like learning from firsthand experience.
- Remember, grade charts can’t illustrate the way fear or exposure can increase a climb’s difficulty. The same step might be easier at ground level but can be daunting when you’re up in the air.
Beyond 7c+: Pushing Your Limits
Climbing 7c+ and above is a serious physical and mental challenge. At this level, you’re in territory where mostly elite climbers advance. Climbers here should identify goals beyond 7c+ to keep developing. Personal mastery goals should be less about the next grade and more about developing skill, grit, and know-how.
For example, picking a goal like working toward 8a or trying a new boulder problem on the Fontainebleau scale pushes you to up your game. Training and skill become increasingly critical as you go up in grades. The physical labor required, strength, power and enduring power, is immense.
Good footwork, grip, and body positioning matter just as much. It’s not all about brute strength. Intelligent training regimens, such as hangboard intervals or core exercises, allow you to lay the foundation for these ascents. Incorporating other styles, like slab, overhang, or crack, can fill holes in your skill set.
Los Angeles area climbing gyms offer a range of climbing experiences. This gives you the opportunity to try out a variety of holds and angles, all in a single location. Mental fortitude is equally monumental. Each difficult ascent is accompanied by anxiety, danger, and the requirement of total concentration.
Climbers at this level honestly evaluate their skills and work on their deficiencies. As a result, they take intelligent risks, which fuel their advancement while keeping them safe and healthy. They strategize every attempt, analyze the route, and treat every fall as a teaching moment. The world’s hardest climbs, such as those at 9c, demonstrate what can be achieved when we combine clear plans with unwavering resolve.
Climbing Grade Conversions
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Fontainebleau scale?
The Fontainebleau scale, or “Font” scale, is a French bouldering grading system. It employs a numerical and alphabetical system, similar to 7C+, to communicate the level of challenge. It’s really catching on in Europe and all over the world.
What is the V scale?
The V scale, or Hueco scale, is the primary bouldering grade system used in the United States. It begins at V0 and increases as challenges increase in difficulty. It’s intuitive and accessible, much like its use throughout American gymnasiums and crags.
What is the V scale equivalent of 7C+?
7C+ on the Font scale typically translates to around V10 on the V scale. Grades might seem subjective based on the crag, but the V10 is the generally agreed upon equivalent.
Why do climbing grades feel different in different regions?
Climbing grades often feel like they are getting easier or harder based on local climbing styles, rock types and grading traditions. What feels like a V10 in one area may feel like a V9 or V11 in another for any of these reasons.
Are climbing grades always accurate?
Not perfectly. They represent the first ascensionist’s judgment and later climbers’ feedback. Personal strengths, body types, and conditions play a huge role in how difficult something is perceived to be.
How can I convert Font grades to V grades in the U.S.?
Refer to conversion charts or tables available online from reputable climbing organizations or magazines. For instance, 7C+ is typically V10. Never substitute for local beta and always consult veterans with extensive area experience.
Can I climb harder grades by only focusing on the numbers?
Concentrating solely on climbing grades can set you up for disappointment. Real progress comes from developing technique, strength, and experience. Have fun with the process and use grades to measure how far you’ve come, not how far you need to go.
